Power now lies with middle class palates?

So suggested the New York Times in a recent article “Influence and Spending Power Now Lies with the Middle Class,” referring to the closing of upscale food magazine, Gourmet. It went on to imply that an interest in “food exploration” is dead, and although Gourmet is an iconic brand, it couldn’t make enough profit to stay in business. A business editor at the paper even suggested that everyone would resort to “eating Ketchup, mayonnaise from a jar and Velveeta cheese.”

I’d like to debunk all of these notions. Clearly, affluent palates are used to world cuisines and new taste sensations, and won’t be retreating to humdrum food experiences just because Gourmet went under. Yes, comfort food has seen a real resurgence in recent years and the desire for it seems to be holding strong, but it’s food made with the freshest, and where possible, farm-to-table and/or organic ingredients. 

Second, in today’s viral marketing world, a brand’s dream is to build legions of passionate followers, for whom their product is an icon. There are close to 1 million Gourmet subscribers – that’s a lot of advocates. Achieving such a devoted following is considered money in the bank by many, provided that it’s nurtured, engaged and innovative product extensions are developed. 

In my opinion, rather than take drastic measures, such as closing Gourmet, the publishers could have reached out and engaged readers, asking what they would like to see. And I can’t help but wonder if McKinsey consulting was too quick to advise closure.

By: Karen Weiner Escalera